Inside nyloS: Maui’s Secret Culinary Gem
- Emily Simpson
- 16 hours ago
- 4 min read
nyloS, located on a quiet street in Paia, Maui, is the island’s only tasting menu, the dream child of Chef Jeremy Solyn and his wife Paulina. A six-course menu, filled with local ingredients and exotic delicacies, is offered Wednesday- Sunday for only 7 lucky tables per night. The menu deserves every accolade imaginable, but it’s the service and meticulous attention to detail and each guest that truly elevates the experience to such a level of excellence. Chef Jeremy and Pauline opened nyloS in January 2017 and have poured their heart into creating a space filled with Aloha and culinary art. They treat you like family - Chef chatted through the entire service, while effortlessly weaving through complex courses.
An unassuming restaurant front, once you enter, you are greeted with an open kitchen and a warm dining space, complete with a glass of bubbly – always a treat! Pauline guided me through several wine pairing options, as well as selections by the glass. I chose the pairing, and was not disappointed. I could tell this would not be a regular tasting menu experience, although the offerings could rival Michelin restaurants in Europe. At $325 for my evening’s menu, the price is not for the faint of heart, but it was worth it.
Each course was more inventive than the next – including local produce (so local that it included lilikoi from the chef’s tree outside), proteins, and luxury ingredients like foie gras, wagyu, and enough gold flakes to rival Fort Knox! I loved everything I tried, but I will highlight a few in order of service, rather than a ranking. They were all amazing!
The meal got off to an amazing start with a plate overflowing with opulence - Whitefish Caviar, Foie Gras Crostini, Grilled and Chilled Kona Lobster Tail, Lilikoi Vinaigrette, Chives, Micro Salad, Gently Fermented Rainbow Carrots, Fermented Local Cherry, Brouillaide, Upcountry Watermelon Juice with Lilikoi Smoke Bubble, and Silver Paper. We were invited to sample each part of the plate separately, then to combine flavors. My favorite bites on the plate were the lobster in the vinaigrette and the watermelon juice. Both refreshing bites highlighted the beauty of local products. This course was paired with the sparkling wine gifted at the top of the evening perfectly! The plate woke up my palate and gave me a hint of what was to come.
Another standout was the amazingly balanced and unique Organic Aborio Risotto, Pork Hash, Emulsified Pork Jus, Old Bay Seasoned Chicharron, Gently Broiled Corn, Chili Oil, and Micro Greens. It was rich, sweet, spicy, and salty- hitting so many flavor notes that each bite, whether enjoyed on its own or combined, was better than the last. The heat built as you continued eating the dish, while the corn added sweet notes, which cut through the salt and fat of the pork and chicharrons. This course was paired with Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, which added a bright citrus profile. The acidity and tartness of the wine paired perfectly with the complexity of the dish.
The third course deserves special mention: Sauteed A5 Wagyu Beef, Spicy Chinese Mustard Sauce, Char-Poached Artichoke Heart, Unfermented Kim Chi & Jus, and delicately Char-Dried Enoki Mushrooms. The Wagyu was treated with such care that it melted like butter, while the tang and umami flavors of the artichoke heart and kimchi brightened the plate. The spicy mustard delivered a bold kick, its heat a welcome counterpoint to the richness of the meat and the dish as a whole. The Wagyu was paired with Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, a full-bodied Italian red blend, with aromas of cherry, dried fruit, spice, and dark chocolate, with a velvety, warm, and silky texture. It was a surprise choice, given that a cab is a normal pairing with such a dish, but the cherry and spice paired beautifully.
I was tempted to keep NYLOs to myself, a secret among friends- but Chef Jeremy Solyn and Paulina deserve every accolade they’ve earned, and all those still to come. The atmosphere of a little touch of Paris they have created in the sleepy town of Paia is a welcome escape from the typical island meals (not that I do not love poke, loco moco, and all of the other local tropical offerings). They make you feel like ohana and truly embrace the spirit of Aloha! nYlos is a wonderful spot for a celebration meal – do not miss it!
Emily Simpson, based in the Bay Area, is a travel and fine dining correspondent for FoodFamilyTravel.com.
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