Rotorua, New Zealand- a land where steam and sulfur rise from the earth, and the air hums with the echoes of ancient stories. Nestled in this geothermal wonderland lies Te Puia, a cultural and natural treasure that offered us one of the most impactful experiences of our journey thus far.
Upon arriving at Te Puia, we were welcomed into the heart of Māori culture with a ceremony steeped in tradition. My husband Dan was given the honor of acting as the visiting chief, a role that carried both significance and responsibility. As the karanga, or ceremonial call, rang out, our group followed Dan into the meeting house. This welcoming ceremony, pōwhiri, was not a performance but a living tradition. The Māori elders offered a challenge, a gesture of honor and testing, which Dan answered with respect. This symbolic exchange marked the beginning of our connection to this land and its people.
The ceremony unfolded with a powerful welcome song and dance. The performers were all part of one Māori family- mothers, daughters, aunts, and sons singing and sharing their culture with strangers from around the world. The harmonies of the Māori voices seemed to resonate with the earth itself, while the rhythmic movements told stories of ancestors, battles, and the natural world. Watching the performers, we couldn’t help but feel a deep respect for their dedication to preserving their heritage.
Te Puia is also home to the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute. Here, we watched students work meticulously on traditional stone and wood carvings. Only ten students are chosen each year to carry on these sacred practices- a testament to the importance of ensuring this art form doesn’t fade into history. As the students’ chiseled into wood, they weren’t just crafting art; they were shaping vessels of storytelling and keeping their cultural traditions alive. Each curve and notch in the carvings encapsulates generations of Māori culture, passing down history in a language carved into timber.
The natural world at Te Puia is equally captivating. We stood in awe before the Pohutu Geyser, the fourth-largest geyser in the world and the largest and most active in the Southern Hemisphere. Pohutu- meaning “big splash”- erupts up to 20 times a day, sending jets of steam and water up to 30 meters (98 feet) into the air. Beautiful crystals of sulfur drip down the many ledges, and every change in direction of the wind shares the strong odor. The geyser’s power is a vivid reminder of the geothermal forces that shape Rotorua, a place where the earth breathes visibly through bubbling mud pools, steaming vents, and thermal springs.
Our time in Rotorua felt like stepping into history- of the Earth- cultures- and people- each page filled with tales of resilience, artistry, and natural wonder. For a family exploring “Life OVER Seas”, this experience was a poignant reminder of the importance of connection- to the land, to its people, and to the stories that anchor us all.
What we’re learning on our months-long adventure is that travel is not just about checking destinations off a list. It’s about immersion. It’s about sharing a hongi- the traditional Māori greeting where noses and foreheads touch- and realizing that in that brief moment, you’re not just visiting; you’re participating in something larger than yourself.