Not the Ibiza You Expect, But the One We Needed
- Katherine Rose Woller
- Nov 7
- 8 min read
Leaving our daughter now that she is old enough to know we are gone is a very different experience from when we she was younger and we could quietly slip away for a weekend.
Despite the fact that it is now infinitely harder to leave our babbling toddler, it is also infinitely more refreshing. Our most recent escape, to the turquoise waters of Ibiza, was a reminder that some time to be Katherine & Joe, rather than just mom and dad, was long overdue.
But before you start picturing us bopping about at raves and yacht parties, let me clarify: this is not the Ibiza you expect. Instead, it’s the Ibiza that begs to be seen.
The Ibiza of exquisite cuisine, a charming old town, and time as a couple, not just parents. It’s the Ibiza that allowed two
parents to steal away for four days of exploring, reconnecting, and finding ourselves in the meals that anchored us: a bar in Barcelona, a daybed at Jondal, and a tapas table that made us laugh until the very end.
With childcare limitations making our time worth a premium, we decided to pack the days as much as possible and immediately dove headfirst into sightseeing in Barcelona.
We hit all the major landmarks, but jet lag from our long-haul overnight flight blurred it all together. By sunset, I was second-guessing the addition of the Barcelona stopover entirely.
That is, until we went to dinner.
My husband used his expert sleuthing skills to find a slightly out-of-the-way place with fabulous reviews, and despite lacking a reservation, we took our chances and headed to Denassus.
Of course, the only spots available at the roughly eight-top restaurant were two stools at the end of the bar. Now, I like the bar for a solo meal, but I usually avoid sitting at the bar on a date night. Maybe it’s old-fashioned, but I want to be comfy when I eat with my man.
It turned out to be a blessing in disguise, and from the moment we sat down, the experience was magical.
The waiter was genuinely delightful, recommending his favorite dishes, which we happily devoured. Ruby red tuna tartare and briny, bright oysters to start. Homemade sourdough bread with fresh tomatoes and garlic to be slathered on liberally before soaking it in earthy Spanish olive oil. A platter of local “Bellota” Iberian ham, sliced so thin it was almost translucent, followed by tender grilled squid, prepared simply with the most beautiful grill marks you’ve ever seen. Finally, the pièce de résistance was half of a fresh grilled sea bass, served bones in and skin on, to preserve every ounce of that gorgeous, flaky white flesh. We savored every bite.
And still, the kicker was our wine.
We recently took a family trip to Chamonix, France (you can read about it here), and while there, we made a spontaneous sojourn to the Jura Wine Region. The wine we had on that trip was so unique and unforgettable that we’ve been seeking out its golden, striking flavor ever since.
Typically, it’s impossible to find, but sure enough, we looked up, and there she was.
We ordered a bottle straight away, and were met with a surprised but pleased look from the sommelier. It turns out that he was equally as obsessed with the Jura Region, and we excitedly exchanged our musings on wine. The somm even shared the history of sherry-style wine making in Spain, and was pleased to have a captive audience with a like-minded love of wine knowledge.
It may sound heady, but it was one of the trip's highlights.
In the end, it wasn’t the multi-mile walking tour through Barcelona that made me grateful for our stopover. It was this one fabulous meal at Denassus. It was the bar seats, the sentimental bottle of Jura wine shared with my husband, and the unforgettable conversation with a sommelier who loved his craft as much as we did.
I would even go so far as to say that it set the tone for our entire trip. A reminder that shared meals often matter more than monuments.
And with our nightcap on Barcelona complete, we headed across the Med.
Landing at the Ibiza airport was what you would expect. Lots of folks ready to party in crochet tops, matching sets, and linen pants.
Rather than following the throngs to the endless beach club hotels, we made our way to Dalt Vila, Old Town Ibiza. While we were in town for a wedding, we had decided to stay in the historical part of town. When we checked into our charmingly quirky room at Montesol Experimental, with stunning pastels and enviable colonial architecture, I knew we had made the right choice.
The rehearsal dinner that night was at a restaurant in the island's central hills, situated on a stunning outdoor terrace overlooking the valley below. Can Domingo was the perfect place to exhale and reconnect with old friends over a family-style dinner shared by all.
Most memorably, I devoured the vibrant, balanced, and perfectly toothsome saffron risotto. But honestly, other than several heaping spoonfuls of this heavenly dish, I barely ate because I was so enthralled in the conversation, good cheer, and reminiscing that engulfed us.
This group may have been established in a very different era of life (read pre-kids), but it didn’t stop us from laughing about the new kinds of joys in our worlds back home.
Still, I guess it wouldn’t be a wedding in Ibiza without one big night on the town, so we did join the crew for VIP bottle service and Calvin Harris at the iconic club, Ushuaia.
Exhausted and all danced out, we peeled off at midnight while the rest of the crew carried on into the wee hours of the morning.
Yet even with our early exit, we proved to ourselves that Mom and Dad still got it.
Determined to keep the momentum, we dedicated the next day to exploration.
Forever the mountain man, my husband will always find a way to climb something steep. This time it was up to the very top of Castell de Eivissa–the fortress of a thousand stairs–which has stood guard over Dalt Vila for centuries. The history was fascinating and the views were stunning, but I’ll never tell him that. After, we descended to one of my preferred pastimes: leisurely perusing local boutiques, galleries, and the many souvenir shops that dot the ancient streets.
That night at the wedding, Villa Blue Star radiated romance.
Pulsing with joy at the chance to wear clothes I could never dream of while chasing a toddler around the dinner table, we sipped cocktails beneath ancient pomegranate trees, and dined on heaping platters of pasta, charcuterie, local fruits, and grilled meats.
Remind me what the Spanish word for ‘beautiful’ is again?
After completing our wedding duties and sightseeing goals, we felt like we had earned one true beach day, one big fancy meal, and one massively restorative day on the Balearic Sea.
Trusting the recommendation of a dear friend, we rolled up to Casa Jondal, and from the moment we stepped into the minimalist entryway, I was smitten. Though they have a more formal outdoor dining area, we opted to sit in the Kiosko lounge space. With just the two of us, it felt intimate, romantic, and far more relaxed than the formal dining terrace.
Settled in our chic bamboo loungers, we ordered what can only be described as a seaside feast.
One perfect boule of warm sourdough bread with melted butter dripping from every crack. Calamari with lemon mayonnaise, because though it may be similar in most places, you can never go wrong with fried squid when it comes to a warm, comforting bite. Red tuna belly with pink peppercorn and vinegar that glistened invitingly in the diffused afternoon light. A whole grilled spiny lobster platter with a finger-licking ‘bilbaína’ sauce of olive oil, garlic, and chili.
And last but not least, my favorite singular bite of the entire trip–caviar on crispy grilled toast that must have been soaked in
melted butter. It was the kind of divine bite that sticks with you.
Oh, how I love a vivid food memory.
But the food wasn’t just delicious, it mirrored the slow, restorative, intentional pace that we finally allowed ourselves to relax into as we savored the moments of our final day.
Stuffed to the brim, we audibled to secure a daybed on the narrow but idyllic beach for just a bit more relaxation. Pale yellow canvas umbrellas punctuated the rocky shoreline for some laid-back Mediterranean luxury, and though it was clearly well-curated, it managed to feel earthy and grounded.
Now, we’re not generally the ‘lay on the beach’ couple, but after getting Ibiza-ed for several days, the sun and sand were the perfect respite to end our trip on a high note, especially when you consider we were two tired parents heading home to a toddler the very next day.
Satiated in body and spirit, we begrudgingly returned to the hotel to pack, shower, and sneak in one last meal for the road.
My husband and I walked around the corner to a local tapas spot, La Bodega, recommended by a boutique owner I met the day before. It was exactly what you’d expect, cozy, filled with animated conversation, and undeniably delicious.
Yet, despite the savory skillet-grilled cheese, perfectly tender octopus, and ribs that practically fell off the bone, the most memorable part of the whole dining experience was our hilarious interaction with the servers about a bird that regularly pooped on one particular table.
No, we did not sit at that table, but watching diners decide how much they were willing to risk in the name of good food was an ongoing delight. We laughed continuously between bites, and the light-hearted release was truly the final unlocking.
That night felt like a punctuation mark on our trip, a delicious reminder that joy often resides in ordinary moments shared with loved ones.
We walked wearily home along the boardwalk, my favorite Amorino gelato in hand (L’inimitabile, aka hazelnut chocolate), and fell asleep hard. It was as if I was both physically and emotionally exhaling before returning home to family life, and it was glorious.
We may not have done Ibiza in the traditional sense, but we sampled it when it suited us and then enjoyed it our way. We walked away reconnected as a couple, rested, and ready to head home to our daughter. Maybe that’s the real gift of travel after all. It’s not the escape, but rather the return home to life a little fuller, a little more joyful, and a little more yourself.
I’ve got the revealing linen sundress and tan lines to prove it. Wink.
Sending love to Ibiza after the recent storms, and gratitude to those who helped clean up a place that brought us so much joy.
Katherine Rose Woller is a FoodFamilyTravel.com contributor. Her travel advice has been seen in Forbes, her parenting insights in Parents and The Bump, and her words in The Mother Chapter.
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